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screaming_chankla
Posts:50
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| Posted:8/22/2005 6:07:23 PM |
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These cups are great IMO. Machined, guaranteed, great customer service and priced well is enough for me. I did find that while initially installing the diff. cups that the threaded holes in the diff. cup had some bur(sp?) still on the threads. What I did was run a screw in and out of the threads before getting the diffs. ready for assembly then cleaning them.
Also, I found that the grub screw bottoms out a little to early and may cause some binding on the gearbox housing for the diffs. It shouldn't be a problem if you are running the stock plastic gear boxes.
Assembly of the diffs.(spyder gears and bevel gears) is pretty straight forward. You really can't goof this up. Remember to reuse the little "O" rings that are on the outdrive cups. Also, remember to use a new set of diff. gaskets on the ring gear. You can either use these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLC1&P=7 or these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCWN2&P=7 or these which I personally used. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a323/codysavage/loweredsavy031.jpg
Remember to lock-tite(blue) all the screws including the grub screw. I used a criss-cross pattern for tightening the screws on the ring gear. Hope this helps some.
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screaming_chankla
Posts:50
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| Posted:8/22/2005 6:08:24 PM |
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| Hmm, there isn't an edit button so I can't edit my post, but I am referring to the Savage diff. cups.
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admin
Posts:226
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| Posted:8/30/2005 9:09:45 AM |
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Thanks for the post.
As for the grub screw hole we machine it like that on purpose so you do not need to put locktite on the threads. All you need to do is once it bottoms out give it and extra 1/2 a turn and all should be good. This way it locks the screw in.
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